February 22 to February 28, 2014 - Fortaleza to Boca da Valeria

Saturday, February 22, we arrived at the dock in Fortaleza at 8:00. There is a bit of a swell here, so the ship rises and falls with it. For this reason we are not snubbed up against the dock. The gangway rolls back and forth on the dock to compensate for the ship’s motion.

The port lecturer had told us that we would take shuttles from the ship to the Central Mercado in the city. This was the same place to which we were delivered in 2012. We told all of our friends what a great spot this was, and how easy it would be for them to walk around. We made our plans using the H. Stern map that the lecturer handed out. We wanted to see some things that we had missed last time.

Upon boarding the shuttle, the lecturer told us that we would now be taken to the old jail, not the market. One of our targets was the Theater. We planned a new route from the jail to the theater. As we did so, we realized how inadequate the map was. Nevertheless we set out for the Theater when we left the jail.

This proved to be the start of another adventure. Distances in reality were much longer than indicated on the map. We walked down very busy streets lined with shops. People were everywhere. Saturday is a big shopping day. We did not see anyone else from the ship.

Periodically we would stop and try to get our bearings. It seemed that continuing in the same direction would get us there. We did ask a few policemen for direction with no success. At last we reached a large square. Near the middle of the square was a platform manned by two policemen. We approached them with map in hand, and asked where the Theater was. They spoke no English, but seeing the map, they pointed to a building on the other side of the square. We had arrived. We should have been very happy, but we were disappointed because the Theater was closed for renovation and surrounded by barricades.

We did not want to just retrace our step to the jail. We wanted to see something different. We set out with the bogus map, and wound our way through more street with many stores. Gradually the crowds thinned and the stores faded to old buildings. We kept checking the map. I felt pretty sure I knew how to get to our goal, the cathedral. But, I had no clue as to where we were. Was it 5 blocks away or miles away? We got to an area where I thought we could find the street that would lead us directly to the church. We walked into a park the had a nice lagoon with several bridges and a pretty building on the other side. We sat down and planned our walk. 

As we walked to the park’s gate, we saw a security guard. He confirmed that our proposed route would take us to the cathedral by using gestures. Then he pointed to his eyes with two fingers, and waved his fingers side to side. We could go that way, but we should be on the lookout. We thanked him, and went on.

As we walked along the street we were vigilant. The neighborhood was old with many residential buildings. There were only a few people on the street at first. After several blocks, more pedestrians appeared. We did not feel threatened. After many blocks we started passing some vendor stalls, and the crowds were reforming.

We were in a different shopping district, and we could see the steeples of the cathedral. We passed a park, the cathedral, and the fort before we entered the central market. There we found that the tourist information office was still in the same space. The clerk did not speak English, but she did provide a map of the city that was far better than the one provided on the ship. This would have been a great place to start our exploration. We left in search of the restrooms. We were back in short order. After asking for Banyos or toilet, she volunteered “bathroom”.

Who would have thought? The bathrooms were very clean and free. This is a marvel, since this is a four story mall.

We left the mall following an exit that I remembered from our last visit. Then we had turned right to walk to the cultural center. This time we turned left, and walked across a bridge in the direction of the jail. This was a good choice because Alice’s knees were protesting our long walk. We did not have to use any stairs to exit the mall our reach the bridge. Very shortly we were at the jail. The old cells had been converted to merchant stalls along three long halls. After surveying the first hall, we met Karol and Carol in the courtyard. Alice, Karol and I went to have a beer in the shade. Carol went shopping. She was on a mission.

After the beer, Alice and I resumed our patrol. Along the way saw a man doing sand art in a bottle. We watched him expertly manage a narrow reed to maneuver the sand around the bottle. He was creating a village scene. It was quite good. We completed our rounds without buying anything beside the one beer. We boarded the shuttle and returned home.

Sunday, February 23, was a special sea day for us. During the day Alice spent her time catching up on her journal and eliminating photos. I worked on the blog and finally made some progress on my reading. This was a special day because we were invited to cocktails in the Captain’s quarters at 6:15. This was followed by the Captain’s dinner in The Pinnacle. Captain Roberts had left the ship in Fortaleza, so this was the first dinner with the new captain. His toast at cocktails was most welcoming. However, he explained that since we would be negotiating some serious dogleg turns at 1:30 in the morning, he wanted to be on the bridge at that time. He apologized for being unable to join us at dinner, but we all agreed it would be better for him to be well rested on the bridge. He cuts a striking figure, and accepts no nonsense, while still being very personable. We like him.

As it turned out there were 32 passengers in attendance. All were 4 and 5 star mariners. A lot of cruising days were represented.

When we arrived at The Pinnacle, we were directed to a table for eight. Two of the other passengers, Jeff and Ken, we had just met at lunch that day. We did not know the third couple. When our table’s officer approached, it was Joris, the Staff Captain. He was joined by his friend, Elena. What charming host and hostess they proved to be. We had opportunities to talk with both of them at length. Joris has been sailing with Holland America for some time, and has worked his way up through the ranks. As Staff Captain, he is second in command of the vessel. He is in command of the bridge in the Captain’s absence. He handles all of our docking and departure moves. He is also the equivalent of fire chief for the vessel. We learned that he is from Antwerp. We have visited Antwerp and were able to speak with him at length about the city. Elena is from Romania. She started working in the casino on ships six years ago. She and Joris have been together for two years, and they will be relocating to Barcelona in

April.

The two hour dinner passed all too quickly. As we prepared to be the last ones out of the restaurant, Jeff commented that it had been such fun dining with them that he hoped we could do it again. Joris said he thought it could be arranged. We all departed as friends with broad smiles. We will see if there is enough time left to schedule another dinner.

Monday, February 24, we arrived at Belem on schedule. Last time we visited, local tenders took us to shore from the anchorage. Those were double decked river buses, and a lot of fun. This time the ship’s tenders were used. This was not as much fun, but far more efficient.

The last time Alice and I had taken the ship’s shuttle bus into Belem about 45 minutes away. This time we decided to skip Belem and spend the day in the small town at the tender pier. We were surprised as we walked off the pier. The brick steps at the end of the pier that we had used were gone. 

To the right was a makeshift stairway. To the left was a paved area that led past a few stalls to a new brick walkway. We followed this. At street level was another surprise. Two years ago this street was gravel with water filled potholes. Now it was Asphalt with a bike lane, a parking lane and a through lane. Beautiful!

We decide to take the walkway away from the shuttle stop toward the river. It was very nicely kept. Halfway to the bend in the river was a pavilion with artisan stalls.

 It was very nice , and the merchandise was primarily  pottery and ceramics. We found some small vases to remind us of this place. When we reached the bend we continued on the walkway. Here we found counter after selling coconut water. Each had a bin f coconuts and plastic chairs lined along the railing overlooking the river. 

As we passed each one, the proprietor would hail us to buy from him. Because the chairs blocked the walk, we were walking in the bicycle lane. Cars and motorcycles going by would honk and wave at us. Cyclists would say hi. All were very friendly.

We continued walking toward the beach overlook. We were not far from a trio of residential towers rising about 20 stories. Nothing else in this city approached their height. We asked ourselves how much it might cost to live there, who could afford it and how did they make their livings. The Internet will get a workout when we get home.

We traced our way back to the tender pier, and turned into the heart of the city. We looked into many shops, and finally we entered a grocery store that also sold lunch. In the back we found beer, wine, liquor and soft drinks. All were reasonably priced. We bought 2 liters of a mystery soda. It appeared to be a fruit mixture. We would drink it back at the river in the shade. As I was paying for the soda, Alice disappeared. I found her at the lunch counter photographing the food selections. The ladies behind the counter were encouraging her. They even asked her to take their picture. 

They giggled when she showed it to them. More window shopping brought us to the town center. On our way back to the pier we found the central market. It was early afternoon so the meat and fish side was closing down. We still found some interesting things. We skipped the produce and hard goods to find a shady seat along the river.

The soda was a mixed fruit. We still cannot identify exactly what fruit. It was satisfying with a fresh taste. After drinking about half of it we went to the tender pier to wait for our ride back to the ship. Once aboard, we reviewed our experience over lunch. This had been delightful. We had so much more fun than we had in Belem.

The skies opened and the rain poured down. We did not care. This made our day that much better.

Tuesday, February 25, we had returned to the Atlantic after leaving Belem. We were now cruising toward the Amazon delta. Late in the night we would cross the shallow delta. This would be a somewhat noisy process before we regained the depth of the river. It would also mark the end of the ship’s ability to make fresh water. The silt and debris content of the Amazon is so high that the ship’s filters would become easily clogged. The laundry would close except for essentials. We have been asked to conserve water and to reuse our towels. These restrictions would be in place until we left the Amazon on March fourth. We will be using water from our storage tanks until then.

This was also the day of the King Neptune ceremony to “honor” those who had crossed the equator for the first time. The slime and old vegetables applied to these souls was quite the honor.

Wednesday, February 26, brought an interview with the Chief Housekeeper by our cruise director. Although his primary focus was the laundry, he did explain that he was also responsible for the cleanliness of the entire interior of the vessel.

Following the interview we were given a tour of the laundry on deck 2. 14 people wash all of the ship’s linens, all crew laundry and all passenger laundry. They work in two shifts. We saw the large, 140 pound, washers, the 95 pound driers, the garment pressing machines and the machines that press and fold the sheets. Towels are folded by hand. We were very impressed. Some say we impress too easily.

Thursday, February 27, we docked at Santarem. Bravo! Last time another cruise ship took our spot, and we were required to anchor and tender in. This time we were the only cruise ship in port.

The port lecturer had said that the way into the city was a long walk and taxis would be available for about $10. We had toured here the last time, so we decided to stay onboard. At breakfast all eight of us said the same, except that we would walk the pier to see the local crafts.

Well, as we prepared to visit the crafts, the cruise director announced that two shuttle buses would be available at no cost to take us to and from the city. After a brief huddle, Alice and I decided to ride into town.

But first, we spent some time talking with vendors near the ship. Mario explained that the rainy season ends in May. The river is rising now, but it will get so high that the entire port area will be under water. No ships will be able to dock here. Even the river busses will have to move downstream to dock.

When we took the tour here in 2012, we had very little time to spend in the city. After we got off the shuttle and started walking we realized that this was a little jewel, and we had missed most of it.

We viewed the meeting of the waters for the Topojas and Amazon rivers. Because of temperature and density differences, it takes a considerable for the waters to thoroughly mix. As a result there is a clear line of muddy and clear water at the first meeting. Then pools of clear water appear in the muddy waters. Finally the turbulent Amazon overcomes the tributary’s waters.

We started walking back toward the harbor. First we visited a small park then the cathedral. We saw a lot of people sitting near the back of the church. It was 11:30 and we wondered if a service was about to start. Then we noticed that they were all using phones or tablets. They had found free Internet.

As we left the cathedral we decided to stay inland to visit the markets. A short way away we found a very nice craft store. They had a broad selection of merchandise without prices. Everything was negotiable, but expensive.

Next to this shop we entered a fabric store. This was like a warehouse full of fabric of every kind and threads, yarns and strings of every color. The fabric was folded or in small bolts on tables. The thread etc. was in large spools under the counters and on shelves lining the walls. I have never seen such a selection. Then we were invited into the back. Here we saw rack after rack with four or five large bolts of fabric each. The colors, textures and patterns were overwhelming. This looked like the Amazon.com of fabrics. Walking on disclosed that the two neighboring spaces were all part of this same operation. Wow!

Now we found specialty stores including hardware, shoes, clothing and finally a department store. We were looking for music to use in making slide shows of the area, so we meandered through the store. When we stopped to look at the wine on shelves behind a counter, the clerk motioned us to come to her. She opened a path behind the counter, and we were able to handle the bottles and read the labels. This was all very nice, and satisfied our idle curiosity. Upstairs we found clothing and housewares, but no music.

We were just ogling the shops and stalls, when we came to the pedestrian street. Behind more of the same merchandise we found the entrance to the market. We saw fish and meat for sale. 

The flies were gratis. We moved back to the craft booths and after a few blocks we returned to the waterfront.

All along the seawall designed to prevent the flooding of the downtown river boats were tied up. Some of these were large river busses. Others were cargo boats. Still others were livestock boats. Some of the latter were designed for cattle. Others were for pigs, sheep and goats. All were clean and odor free. The market could take a lesson from them.

We were fascinated by the river busses. There are no roads here, so transit from one place to another is by boat. The longer distances are transited on the river busses. It is possible to pay extra and get a cabin on the larger ones. This is a room with two bunks, but no toilet. The usual passage is in a hammock on one of the decks. When boarding begins, people claim their space by slinging a hammock on deck and placing their belongings under it. This may be their “home” for the next three days or more.

The hammocks are beautiful. The colors are brilliant and the trim is very different form one to another. We saw some of these for sale in the market, but we are waiting for Manaus.

We have been told that the included meals consist mainly of rice with beans or chicken. The abundance of beans makes for some malodorous sleeping.

The river busses run on a regular schedule, rather like our greyhound busses.

We walked the seawall all the way back to Prinsendam. We watched roof tiles being loaded into the hold of one boat. We saw one, two and three decked boats. We presume the single deck boats are for short runs. Vendors along the seawall were selling foodstuffs to boarding passengers. They also sold water and other beverages.

At one point we saw a double trailered semi unloading toilet paper at the curb. This was then transferred onto a boat. This was being shipped to someplace else on the river. The volume was enormous.

We got back to Prinsendam four hours after we set out. What was a fifteen minute ride into the city led to almost four hours of walking back. We were grinning from ear to ear. We had such a great time. Once again we learned that while the ship’s tours are good, they cause you to miss other good things. Life is full of trade offs. We learned, again, why doing this voyage a second time is so well worth it.

After lunch we went back to the craft stalls in the port. This resulted in the purchase of a few items of inexpensive jewelry and a t-shirt. We returned happy without getting overheated. The day had been very hot and huid. It had also been very satisfying. Santarem is a very nice place to visit.

Friday, February 28, brought us back to the small Amazon village of Boca da Valeria. We went ashore via tender to see how two years might have changed this place. The first thing we noticed was that the tender pier had been moved a little further up the river. It was also apparent that most of the buildings had been repainted. They looked bright and fresh.

Some things had not changed. Children still waited at the pier to adopt passengers. This consisted of grabbing your hand and leading you through the small village. Payment was expected for this privilege. There were still many children waiting to be photographed for a modest fee. The house at the far end of the village was still open for touring. The mattress had been removed the bedroom. The long shaft boat motor was no longer stored in that room. In the kitchen just about everything was as it was two years ago. However, the washing machine was gone. This house also had been painted.

Climbing the stairs to the school revealed that the one room had not changed. Books were neatly piled on the shelves. The blackboard showed that there were 36 students in two classes. There was one box for gifts of educational aids and another  for cash donations. A charming young boy took us to the large globe standing in the center of the room. He rotated it to show us where we were on the Amazon and signed to ask where we were from. We showed him Chicago and he measured the distance between the two points. We could not gauge his reaction.

After leaving the school we visited the craft booths The major new item was wood carving. We saw several carvings reminiscent of carvings from the Philipines.

We did not take a ride in one of the local boats because we had done that previously. Back onboard we were disappointed to learn that this was a mistake. Almost all of the boat tours included a walk up to the village up river. There were new houses and a larger school with a computer lab in that place. Must we return?

The sun was shining for our entire visit. As we left to return to the main channel of the Amazon the puffy clouds cast beautiful shadows on the river. The bright sunlight caused the greenery on the shoreline to form a lovely margin for the river. Gliding along was peaceful and heavenly. We cannot remember the last cruise past here being so charming.